If you’re peri-, post-, or just plain menopausal, or if you’re using anti-aging actives like tretinoin, glycolic acid, or vitamin c, you’ve probably had more than an occasional bout with dry and flaky skin. And you’ve probably also noticed that it’s much harder to apply foundation that looks natural and doesn’t accentuate the dry spots and flakes. So, here’s a tutorial on how to apply foundation to dry, flaky, mature skin.
If you want to watch the video instead of reading, click the link below:
Step 1: Prep
A little prep work goes a long way when dealing with skin flakes. Start by washing your face with a gentle, non-foaming, cleanser and a soft cloth or Clarisonic and pat dry (no rubbing). Apply your treatments, serums, and a light moisturizer with sunscreen.
Step 2: De-Flake
If you still have visible flakiness, use a clean damp washcloth to gently wipe away remaining flakes (again, no rubbing). For flakes on the eyebrows or at the hairline, use a spoolie (eyebrow brush) to grab flakes being careful not to disturb the skin under the eyebrows or along the hairline.
Step 3: Prime
Use a silicone based primer to smooth and “seal” the skin’s surface. Benefit POREfessional, and Rimmel Fix & Perfect are good options. Take a pea sized amount on your fingertip and rub fingers together to warm it up. Then apply to the face by pressing, not rubbing the primer onto the skin applying first to dryer areas and distributing the rest to more normal areas.
Step 4: Conceal
Apply under eye concealer beneath the eyes by patting with the fingers or pressing with the pointed end of a blending sponge. I like Lorac Touch Up To Go Concealer Pen for dry under eyes. It’s a light moisturizing formula that contains vitamins a, c, and e. Use a creamy concealer stick or pencil to color over any blemishes or age spots.
Step 5: Foundation
Use a silicone based foundation so it won’t react with the primer causing more sloughing and flaking. I like Estee Lauder Double Wear Light. It glides over wrinkles, minimizes pores and sets up to a matte finish that stays put all day. Dip the fat end of the same blending sponge into foundation (a large pea size blob on the back of your hand) and press it onto the face while moving to different areas. Use a “pouncing” or pressing motion to evenly distribute and blend the foundation without disturbing the skin.
Step 6: Set
I prefer to use a hydrating setting spray when my skin’s dry rather than powder which can look cakey (but I’ll show you how to do both). Lightly spray a small tapered powder or blush brush (Elf blush brush is perfect) with setting spray (I use Elf Mist & Set because it doesn’t contain alcohol) and lightly tap the brush under each eye, in the t-zone, and wherever you’re driest.
To set with powder, use a really loose, big fluffy brush. Swirl brush in powder and shake off to remove excess product. Press the brush to the cheeks, forehead, and chin. I like Lorac Porefection Finishing Powder.
Step 7: Blush
When skin’s dry, cream or stick blush is best. Use a flat foundation brush to pick up some blush and tap lightly onto cheeks. I’m using Nars Stick Blush in “Maui”.
The key to good looking makeup when skin is dry and flaky is to use creamy, moisturizing products, patting, pressing, and tapping to apply (no rubbing or scrubbing), and setting it all so you don’t have to disturb it during the day.